Sunday, May 14, 2006


Apologies to all if you've been waiting for me to take action for any reason. Bank holidays, school holidays and teacher strike days have really messed with my schedule, and this is not the sort of thing you can do with a small child on the prowl. Then just when you least expect it, some snidey bugger comes along and generously shares their flu with you. Thanks a bunch.

Anyway, I'm done sniffing and sleeping and have finally able to get stuff done. I resnapped the casts I've done already and reposted in chronological order, so you can see progress in action and problem solving at its best. I've also added details of what to do with your rubber mould when you get it, so you can "try it yerself", as Neil Buchanan says. I do recommend the chocolate - now you finally find out what it's like to suck your own cock. Kind of.

Tomorrow's job will be to attack the inbox, catch up on everything and round up some more victims volunteers. Do bear with me though, I'm a lone ranger and it's a tough job!

Pimp My Snack Cock

In a flash of Easter-inspired experimentation, I had a go at casting a cock out of chocolate. I think it worked pretty well. And I had a lot of fun eating it. Hehe.

Anyway, I'm a lady who likes to share, so here's how. You wouldn't get this kind of quality instructional entertainment on Blue Peter.


You will need to make a cardboard support for the mould. An easy way to get the basic shape is to use a water-based pen (or anything washable) to outline the rim of the mould before pressing down onto sturdy cardboard.

Cut out the shape, trimming for a snug fit. Wash the mould thoroughly and dry well (especially inside) before inserting into the hole. Use a deep jug or similar vessel to rest the cardboard on.

Slowly melt the chocolate in a bowl over hot water.When melted and smooth, allow to cool (as much as possible without it setting) before spooning intomould. Squeeze the mould to ensure even filling.

Squeeze the mould gently to remove any air bubbles. Level off the surface with the edge of a knife and wipe the edges clean with a damp cloth or moist kitchen roll.

Place the filled mould in the refrigerator for as long as possible (preferably overnight).When fully set, gently peel back the mould. Wash the mould and dust with cornflour to protect it.


Care of your Latex Mould

Short and sweet: a few tips on looking after your latex mould. If you treat it well it can give you up to around 50 copies. That’s a lot of replica cock.
  • Avoid using oil-based lubricants and casting media (vaseline, etc) as these could rot the rubber.
  • Wash and dust with talcum powder or cornflour after use.
  • Store in a cool dark place.

If I have forgotten anything, please let me know!

Casting Materials

Some of you will be in possession of a nice piece of latex now, and are no doubt wondering what to do with it. Here’s what you need to know regarding materials and casting.


This works well and is readily available, but isn’t as sturdy as stone powder.

Quantity: 1 part water, 2 parts plaster of paris by volume.

Suggested amount:
½-¾ pint water (depending on size of mould), 1-1½ pint plaster
1-1½ mugs water, 2-3 level mugs plaster

~STONE POWDER (herculite)

Available from some craft shops. Some suggestions here :

Fred Aldous



You may be able to get it in some hardware stores, although I am unsure if they do it in small quanties (e.g. 1kg). This is much harder then plaster of paris and gives great detail.

Quantity: 1 part water, 3 parts stone plaster by volume.

Suggested amount:
½-¾ pint water (depending on size of mould), 1½ -2¼ pint stone plaster
1-1½ mugs water, 3-4.5 level mugs stone plaster


Prepare your latex mould for filling. Take some strong card and cut out a hole in the centre which will fit snugly round the bottom of the mould (it may help to mark around the edge of the opening with a water-based pen, ink or food dye and pressing it down on the card to make a guide mark. Use this to cut and shape the hole to fit. Push the mould through the hole so the lip sits on the top. Hang the mould in a bucket or large bowl, resting the cardboard across the top. Ensure the whole shebang is sturdy.

Measure out the water into a large bowl or small bucket. Slowly shake the powder into the water and stir slowly (using your hand is best). Try not to get too many bubbles into the mixture. When the mixture thickens to the consistency of thick cream/custard, it is ready to use. Pour into the prepared mould until ¾ full, squeeze out any bubbles, then top up, squeeze gently, level off and leave to set, preferably overnight. Often full hardness will not be achieved for a couple of days, so leave for as long as possible (and resist the urge to add Viagra).

When hard, slowly peel off the mould. You can then file and sand any rough edges (make sure you wear a mask as this can get dusty). Wash and dry your mould, then dust with talc or cornflour and store (more information on care of your mould can be found here).

For a more visual guide to filling your mould, click here.

If you wish to paint your plaster cast afterwards, applying a layer of white (PVA) glue to the surface will prevent the paint from seeping into the porous surface.


Personally I have not used this resin before, but it is the best thing if you wish you make a sturdy cast for more practical purposes. Also, it won't destroy the latex.

If you’re interested in this, here are some useful links. If you need any more assistance, drop the relevant company a line and I'm sure they'll be happy to help.



Homecrafts (waterbased)


NOTE: If you intend to put your resin cock anywhere other than your mantelpiece (if you know what I mean), make sure you protect yourself by rolling on some adequate protection (if you know what I mean).

~CHOCOLATE See here.

Of course, you can always experiment with something different – do let me know the result! Just remember that whatever you use can’t get too hot as it will melt the latex (this includes wax and glycerine soap). Also, beware of using anything oil-based as it can damage the latex. (Matthew Barney, I’m talking to you and your Vaseline stash.)

If you do try anything unusual, do let me know how you get on. Send some photos and descriptions my way and we can share the knowledge with everyone else!


AGE: 24
ORIGIN: England
STATS: 9.5 cms

I used the papier mâché mould again, but should have perhaps padded it out a little with newspaper as its ‘one size fits all’ capability means it’s sometimes a little too spacious (meaning no disrespect to 600032 there). Also, the owner laid back which I don’t think worked as well as standing up or perching on the edge of a seat and leaning into it.

Interesting tale with this one: I cast this while staying with my puritanical mother, where penises and creative mess are generally frowned upon (she's not a lesbian - it's just that in her opinion it's not ladylike to be messing with trouser snakes. LOL.) I had to wait until she had gone to bed before stealthily working in the back yard and kitchen. I have *never* been so tidy in all my life, haha. Anyway, that night I was at home to Mr. Cock-Up as the support leaked, welding the whole thing to the mug it was sitting in. I had to wait three days with the cock chaos hidden in my room before I could get it out again. I managed to free the Trouser One by chipping away at the mug and its contents with a hammer and chisel (again, trying hard to conceal an almighty mess.) When it finally freed itself, the relief washed over me in an awesome wave.


AGE: 21
ORIGIN: England
STATS: 10 cms

Nerves struck again I fear, but it didn't matter as we ended up with a good cast of a cock in repose. Americans take note - this is what a good healthy foreskin looks like.


AGE: 38
ORIGIN: England
STATS: 10.5 cms

This has to be the fastest casting so far – in and out in less than 30 minutes! This time I used a new method, pouring the paste into a pre-prepared papier mâché casing. Recycling at its finest! This gave good support to the mould and consequently the best result so far. This is a sturdy chap with a bold presence in the testicle area. NOTE: someone forgot to have a pubic trim here. This resulted in a lot of testicle tugging as I tried to get the mould off. Be warned.


AGE: 31
STATS: 13 cms

I decided to dispense with the bag method for this one and try the ‘direct application’ approach. This would have worked pretty well at the first attempt; however, the model had a more challenging problem than stage fright! This funster wouldn’t go down no matter how hard I tried, and my delicate handling only seemed to make things worse. To cut a long story short, it took four attempts and one off the wrist to get this baby in one piece. Even then, the mould cracked a little, causing the cast to come out slightly twisted, but I find this somewhat representational of the ‘wild stallion’ nature of the member concerned. Also visible around the shaft is some neat circumcision scarring, a mark of its Jewish Italian heritage.


AGE: 38
ORIGIN: England
STATS: 10.5 cms

Here I used the bag method again. It was better this time as I was quicker to move the paste around in the bag but it wasn’t easy and still not perfect. Failed to get all the whole scrotal sac in either but it still looks pretty good and stands up nicely. I had to do a little repair work to the head where the mould was weak and buckled. I couldn’t leave it distorted; it looked too painful.


AGE: 26
ORIGIN: England
STATS: 11 cms

600031 was quite nervous, as nervous as anyone would be with a demanding jug-wielding woman on your case anyway!
In this case I used the advice given to me by the alginate suppliers and put the paste in a bag before applying it. This worked better than applying it by hand (i.e. you didn’t get covered in it and it didn’t all drop off) but the end result wasn’t as good as I expected. Despite best efforts, the mould buckled somewhat and distorted the end. This exposed some interesting detail in the banjo string area.


AGE: 22
ORIGIN: Australia
STATS: 11 cms

My first willing victim, willing due to the fact that he was handcuffed to the ceiling and blindfolded. I applied the paste by hand, which was a fast and fiddly job and preferred to stick to my hand more. Also, the cool temperature forced a slight retraction of tackle, but it gives for great head/foreskin detail.